How much do we actually understand about the inner workings of the watches we purchase?
We decided to dissect this complex time-measuring instrument and help you understand what you are actually paying for. Although watches are often considered simple tools, their underlying complexity is frequently overlooked. The Jacob Guldan brand is not only about producing high-quality watches but also about sharing the secrets of watchmaking with our community. How much do we really know about what goes on inside watches or which materials increase their quality, value, and durability?
Quartz Versus Mechanical
Every watch is powered by a mechanism concealed within the case, known as a movement or caliber. Watch movements fall into two primary categories: mechanical and quartz. Mechanical watches operate on kinetic energy, while quartz watches utilize a battery to power an electronic oscillator, thereby controlling the watch's movement. Mechanical movements are further categorized into manual winding or automatic winding. The result is that quartz watches are much more accurate than any mechanical watch.
Quality Means Durability
When it comes to choosing quartz watches, the market offers many options. Customers often pay for the brand and not for the actual value of the watch. A significant difference between fashion watches and so-called 'disposable watches' primarily lies in the quality of components and craftsmanship; watches crafted from quality materials not only look great but also function well for years, if not decades.
In more expensive watches, tighter tolerances increase the overall durability and accuracy of the movement. Jacob Guldan employs the high-quality Swiss-Made 713 Ronda Quartz movement. Thanks to its energy-saving mechanism, the movement boasts a very long battery life - approximately 60 months.
Sapphire Crystal as a Sign of Quality and Luxury
Watch glass can be made from sapphire or mineral crystals or from plexiglass or acrylic hesalite crystal. Sapphire glass is the most expensive of all watch crystals, and its production is a costly process. Expensive tools and equipment are used for polishing and cutting this material. Sapphire's resistance to scratching and breaking further attests to it being one of the hardest substances on Earth. Sapphire glass is a common component of all luxury watches, including those by Jacob Guldan. Mineral crystals are somewhat more expensive than plastic or acrylic options but much cheaper than sapphire crystals. However, they are more resistant to scratching compared to acrylic and plastic. Most mid-range watches offer this crystal as a cost-effective choice of glass.
An often overlooked but essential feature of sapphire glass is the anti-reflective coating (AR). Anti-reflective layers are applied to the sapphire glass to improve functionality in glare and enhance its cosmetic appearance. The glass may be coated on both sides or just on the underside. Jacob Guldan uses an underside AR coating because it does not affect the scratch-resistant function of the sapphire glass.
Stainless Steel Case, Enamel Dial, and Leather Strap
At low costs, the watch case can be made from zinc alloy, for mid-quality watches from stainless steel 304. For high-quality watches like Jacob Guldan's, the case is made from stainless steel marked as 316L. This type of stainless steel has an exceptionally low carbon content and is extremely resistant to corrosion, effects of seawater, or acidic liquids. Material 316L is also resistant to magnetism, unlike common stainless steel grades such as 201 or 304L. Most major companies producing luxury watches use steel 316L due to these properties.
Manufacturers of cheaper watches use synthetic leather made from thermoplastic polymer for straps. For mid-quality watches, they use leather made in China. Jacob Guldan works with high-quality handmade cow leather straps made in Germany.
Our dials also match the quality of the other components. The dial is made from a thin metal plate with a high-quality light or dark surface.
All components of Jacob Guldan watches have undergone our careful selection with an emphasis on their quality, functionality, and durability, so they can be manually assembled by our master watchmakers in Slovakia.
